The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on